Riverbench 2006 Estate Pinot Noir ($34)

Sometimes its difficult to get things out as soon as they happen, no matter how much technology I try to surround myself with. Its pretty much just a factor of spinning a lot of plates and trying to not drop any. Last Tuesday I had the pleasure of spending time at Lido, quite possibly the best restaurant on the central coast, where every Tuesday Chef Evan Treadwell invites a different winery to present their wines, and the chef has his staff create some fantastic hors d’oeuvres. Lido is at Dolphin Bay, a luxury resort in Pismo Beach and a winner of a 2007 Wine Spectator Restaurant Award.
The winery that was presenting was Riverbench from Santa Maria, CA and after tasting a series of four different wines, its obvious that they have taken advantage of the unique micro-climates that the Santa Maria Valley provides. I happen to live about 15 minutes north and reap the benefits of the cool ocean breezes, the fog layers, and the moderately warm temperatures that has made the Central Coast an exceptional grape growing region. Now, mind you that as I am tasting the wines, it wasn’t until I was speaking with Riverbench’s brand manager Laura that she mentioned that the winemaker was Chuck “Mr. Chardonnay” Ortman, of Meridian lore. He has an amazing history of great wines and used to source grapes from RIverbench before coming to make their wines in 2006. (Here is an interview with Chuck in the March 2008 issue of Wines & Vines)
The wines we were tasting were the 2007 Bedrock Chardonnay, the 2006 Estate Chardonnay, the 2006 Reserve Chardonnay, and my favorite one of the afternoon, the 2006 Estate Pinot. I also understand that they have a wonderful 2006 Reserve Pinot but I will need to head to the winery for that.
The 2006 Pinot was everything I hoped for after tasting thru the very excellent Chardonnays. Chef Treadwell was serving up some gourmet pizzettas such as spinach and shrimp, a pancetta style bacon, tomatoes and I believe Fontina, and a tasty apple sausage. By the time I was poured the Pinot my taste buds were calling out for red and delicious. The full fruit aromas, noticeable and vibrant with a beautiful burgundy hue was punctuated by the extreme panorama from the outside tables of Lido. Sitting literally on the cliffs of the coast line, it would have been difficult to not be pleased by both the wine and view.
Now, I am by no means a cork dork, but I have been working on my tasting memory and right away I was surprised at the berries that sort of jumped out of this wine, both in aroma and in taste, delicate but not “jammy” if you know what I mean. Pinot is ever the seductive mistress of wines in my book, with the teasing perfumes, the tastes lingering on the tongue, and the feeling of wanting just a bit more when gone. Light, and balanced, this Pinot Noir is very drinkable, and when I get my hands on a few bottles I bet it will go well with a grilled lamb burger and asparagus. The tasting notes even recommended serving it with a spicy Thai risotto and calamari, which sounds great as well.
Go buy it. Seriously. Its a perfect Pinot to bring in the change of the seasons, and the change of the weather, especially if you are local to the central coast. Our hot days are gone, the fog is lingering a little longer in the morning, and the grill is begging for just a bit more attention. Its also a perfect way to see what Chuck is spending his time on now. And after being named “Mr. Chardonnay”, you know he is bringing all his tricks to this winery, his own touch to the Pinots.
If you like Chocolate, and we already know you like wine, Riverbench is having a Chocolate and Wine pairing on Saturday, September 6th from 5-7pm. I would see you there but I will be in the north county doing the color commentary at Cops and Robbers - where the ladies of the Central Coast Roller Derby take on The Sac City Rollers. If you happen to come to the Paso Event Center for the derby bout, please look me up over at the KZOZ tent.







